High Jewelry Collections – The New York Times


PARIS — For a lot of excessive jewelers, not all roads led to Paris this week.

As an alternative, some opted for a change of surroundings to introduce post-Covid collections, a number of of which have been larger, bolder, and featured much more vital gems than in pre-lockdown instances.

“It’s like a coming-out occasion for top jewellery as societies start to reopen,” Paul Zimnisky, a number one diamond analyst, mentioned in an e mail from New York.

Citing important accumulation of wealth (significantly among the many already rich) throughout the pandemic, a seek for havens amid file international inflation, and a context of geopolitical uncertainty not seen for the reason that Chilly Battle, Mr. Zimnisky mentioned, “it’s like the entire stars are aligning for the excessive jewellery market.”

Final month, Cartier revealed its Récif, or reef necklace, with fluted balls of coral and emeralds twisting round a rope of diamonds, a part of a 90-jewel assortment referred to as Beautés du Monde, in Madrid. The occasion, unfold out over 19 days, noticed rich friends mingling with celebrities like Golshifteh Farahani, Vanessa Kirby and the Ok-Pop star Jisoo at a gala within the 18th-century Liria Palace, or singing alongside throughout dwell musical performances by the Black Eyed Peas or Rita Ora.

It wasn’t the one conventional jeweler to go for a vacation spot reveal.

For Van Cleef & Arpels, the avant-garde Palais Bulles, a sprawling advanced on the Riviera as soon as utilized by Pierre Cardin as a trip dwelling, was the backdrop for the debut final month of its La Perlée positive jewellery assortment. However the home additionally seized on the event to point out Perles d’Été, a group of 12 one-of-a-kind excessive jewels impressed by the Mediterranean, utilizing turquoise and different decorative stones mixed with diamonds or sapphires.

Jewellery manufacturers connected to high fashion homes supplied luxurious experiences paying homage to the lavish cruise and resort exhibits staged yearly in unique locales all around the globe.

Having traveled to Prague, Capri, and Monaco for previous excessive jewellery shows, Louis Vuitton this 12 months invited friends to Marrakesh, the place Francesca Amfitheatrof, its artistic director for jewellery and watches, displayed Spirit, her fourth assortment for the home. On the Dar el Bacha Museum of Confluences within the Medina, the model confirmed 80 of a deliberate 120 jewels, a “first chapter” that’s already the home’s largest jewellery assortment to this point. The corporate mentioned it will current the remainder later this 12 months.

Its most vital piece, the model mentioned, is an articulated, openwork choker with a ten.28-carat emerald-cut ruby from Mozambique. The necklace contains three tiers of converging V shapes in taille-sur-oeuvre (custom-cut) gold set with diamonds in the home’s signature Monogram star-and-flower cuts and triangle cuts, interspersed with eight pear-cut rubies.

It comes with a companion ring mounted with a 2.16-carat emerald-cut diamond; each jewels are engineered in order that the middle stones could also be swapped between the 2. In the identical grouping, a pair of supple diamond creeper earrings loop from lobe to higher ear, fastening with a rubied clip.

Dior, meantime, showcased roughly 300 jewels throughout a five-day occasion in Taormina, Sicily. A couple of third have been from Dior Print, a excessive jewellery assortment designed by Victoire de Castellane and impressed by couture trimmings and motifs equivalent to checks and florals. It’s also the home’s largest jewellery assortment to this point.

The Dior Print assortment was displayed in a runway present and, afterward, on fashions organized in dwelling tableaux on the terraced gardens of the Belmond Grand Lodge Timeo. However Ms. de Castellane additionally organized a contemporary cross-pollination between the home’s jewellery and fashion companies by incorporating specifically designed couture seems by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s artistic director for ladies’s collections. Prospects may order the garments and purchase the jewels on the spot.

The third chapter of Gucci’s Hortus Deliciarum assortment by the corporate’s artistic director Alessandro Michele was additionally proven final month, on the Villa Albani in Rome. Described within the designer’s notes as a “reminiscence of reminiscences,” the 200-piece assortment contains a maximalist mash-up of influences stretching from Nineteenth-century Grand Excursions to the Seventies. A micro-mosaic of St. Peter’s Basilica, for instance, is ready amid a necklace of stars in diamonds and blue and yellow sapphires.

However how can such lavish occasions be worthwhile?

“The most important manufacturers have all to realize in escalating the fastened prices to compete. The larger the occasion, the higher. Apart from, it’s real-world occasions that appear to offer an important social media buzz,” Luca Solca, a luxurious analyst on the analysis agency Sanford C. Bernstein, wrote in an e mail.

“What you wish to do — as a giant model — is spend a lot that fewer and fewer manufacturers will be capable of observe. The purpose is to generate income with the general enterprise, whereas casting large shadows on manufacturers that can’t afford to remain within the sport,” he mentioned.

Even so, different Place Vendôme jewelers are out to point out they’ve obtained sport.

Bulgari launched its Eden, The Backyard of Wonders assortment, at its Place Vendôme flagship in early June. Although greater than 30 jewels focused on emeralds, an exuberant necklace referred to as Flowers of Eden, set with tourmalines, carnelians, amethysts, emeralds, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, neatly summarized the season’s development of utilizing decorative, positive, and treasured stones all of sudden.

Of the homes that had gone on the street, solely Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels mentioned they might maintain shows throughout the present high fashion week in Paris.

At Van Cleef & Arpels, the 910-carat Lesotho Legend tough diamond yielded 67 diamonds, which at the moment are showcased within the 25-piece Legends of Diamonds assortment. Each conventional and particular person thriller setting methods wherein the metallic mount turns into invisible to the attention have been used to craft Atours Mystérieux, a transformable diamond and ruby necklace impressed by items from its archive — the Collerette necklace of 1938, and an analogous design created for Queen Nazli of Egypt the next 12 months.

The jewel options an oval-cut diamond weighing greater than 79 carats, nestled in a whorl of rubies and diamonds. It could be eliminated and changed by a mystery-set factor in rubies and diamonds; each items additionally could also be worn individually on a sequence.

About 40 items from the primary chapter of Cartier’s Beautés du Monde assortment will probably be showcased on the Ritz Paris on Wednesday. Amongst them is the Artios necklace, a neo-Artwork Deco model with 16 Colombian emeralds totaling 41.34 carats mounted on an openwork chain of diamonds in quite a lot of cuts with onyx accents.

In Might, Chanel reopened its Place Vendôme flagship following a multimillion-euro renovation by Peter Marino that greater than doubled its floor. And whereas the home will welcome purchasers to its grand salon overlooking the sq. for personal occasions, it’s presenting its newest assortment, referred to as 1932, on the Grand Palais Éphémère this week, within the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

The 77-piece assortment, which marks the ninetieth anniversary of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s first foray into excessive jewellery, reprises celestial themes in chapters named Comet, Moon, and Solar. All of these converge, nonetheless, within the Attract Celeste necklace, anchored by a 55.55-carat oval sapphire nestled in a diamond crescent moon. Removable diamond comets and halos could also be worn individually as a bracelet or as three kinds of brooch. The home mentioned that the piece might be worn in 20 alternative ways.

However in a season that, total, seems very a lot “extra is extra,” some homes — Hermès, Boucheron, Chaumet, De Beers and Pomellato amongst them — targeted on enjoying up sudden contrasts, for instance mixing humble supplies with treasured ones, or creating progressive methods.

With Les Jeux de l’ombre, a 53-piece assortment for Hermès, Pierre Hardy did each, utilizing tough diamonds, crystals, spessartites, aquamarines, tsavorites and mother-of-pearl marquetry on Couleurs du Jour, a necklace impressed by the stained-glass home windows at Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. He additionally devised an invisible mechanism that lets the piece open and shut; it may also be worn again to entrance.

“On the whole, jewellery presents itself all of sudden. This necklace, quite the opposite, is sort of a little theater of sunshine and shadow,” Mr. Hardy mentioned throughout an interview.

In the identical spirit, a hoop with twin discs, in rose gold, diamonds, black jade, and chalcedony, has a pivot hidden below a central moonstone, which lets it’s worn on one finger, or develop right into a two-finger ring, “like an eclipse,” Mr. Hardy mentioned.

For her Carte Blanche assortment this 12 months, referred to as Ailleurs, Boucheron’s inventive director Claire Choisne mentioned that imaginary travels impressed her to attract on the feathers, flowers, and shells utilized in totally different world cultures, revisiting for instance the fowl of paradise as a head jewel set with amethysts, orange and yellow sapphires, pink and violet stones and orange lacquer on titanium.

Elsewhere, Ms. Choisne used flattened, hand-stitched rattan woven with gold thread as a framework for a sculptural, front-clasping necklace referred to as Rotin Diamant. The piece has a two-carat middle diamond and options 2,370 smaller diamonds weighing nearly 95 carats. Mom-of-pearl was additionally the bottom for a putting bib necklace printed with tattoo-like helicoidshells; the bib could also be indifferent from a knotted torque choker in Japanese burned wooden partially set in diamond pavé.

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Recently, De Beers has been experimenting with anodized titanium and aluminum and pavé diamonds as foils for its white and fancy diamonds. A seven-piece parure referred to as Optical Surprise pays tribute to the work of Victor Vasarely, chief of the Op Artwork motion, in both black and white or pink, as on a hoop set with a flowery intense pink diamond from the home’s Pure Works of Artwork assortment.

Chaumet continues to discover the theme of waves and the ocean, now with an expanded palette of colours and stones. Grey, mauve and olive pearls, diamonds and sapphires in a riot of colours mingle on the Comètes des Mers necklace. Numerous sizes of spinel run alongside the higher rim of the Escales necklace, whose diamond fringe is ready with sapphires and Paraiba tourmalines in gradient blues.

But this season could prove to belong to diamonds as conventional jewelers like Graff, and newcomers, like Messika, in addition to impartial designers like Cindy Chao and Anna Hu, put ahead their largest and brightest stones but.

Mr. Zimnisky, the diamond analyst, mentioned that the business had seen “a notable uptick in gross sales of outstanding diamonds, together with highest-quality fancy-colored diamonds with costs in extra of $1 million.”

“These distinctive diamonds are vital for the bigger pure diamond business, as the massive stones promote the small stones,” he mentioned.

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