Jewelry Under the Sun – The New York Times


Pebbles and shells aren’t the one shiny objects you’ll discover on Mykonos this summer time, as Cartier has opened a seasonal store on the Greek island — simply one among many momentary boutiques that luxurious homes are actually working right here and in different upscale seaside places like Capri, St. Tropez and St. Barts.

“Luxurious manufacturers are following the buyer,” Sarah Willersdorf, Boston Consulting Group’s international head of luxurious, wrote in an electronic mail, “and that client is spending extra time in vacation places than ever earlier than, with some going as far as to buy second and third properties.”

Scheduled to function till September in Mykonos’s village of Nammos, the Cartier boutique has a typical Greek look: It’s housed in a whitewashed construction surrounded by olive timber. Inside, the store incorporates a mural by the Greek artist Konstantin Kakanias depicting a Mediterranean panorama of white homes in opposition to a blue sky and sea (in addition to a ship carrying a Cartier panther and one of many home’s crimson jewel bins).

Each the Mykonos store and one other boutique in East Hampton, N.Y., opened in Could as a part of the Cartier D’Été retail program. The identify, which implies Cartier throughout Summer season in English, can be a play on the French expression quartier d’été, or summer time residence.

“We felt that there was a must work together with a nomadic viewers, and we thought that it was a great way to check the situation,” Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s chief advertising and marketing officer, mentioned throughout a video name. He famous that half of the store’s preliminary gross sales had been to People and about 30 p.c to Europeans.

And what did they purchase? Cartier classics: items from the Love and the Juste Un Clou collections, in addition to panther-themed jewellery.

The Parisian jewellery home first began experimenting with ephemeral boutiques over a century in the past, on the French Riviera. Since 1975, the corporate has additionally had a seasonal retailer within the Swiss ski resort of St. Moritz, and different momentary boutiques are deliberate underneath the umbrella of Cartier d’Hîver, or Cartier throughout Winter.

Bulgari additionally has adopted the lead of its founder, Sotirio Bulgari. Within the early 1900s, he opened seasonal outposts in St. Moritz and one other Swiss resort, Lucerne, in addition to Sorrento, Italy. For a number of years, the home has operated trip boutiques in glamorous Italian locations corresponding to Capri and Porto Cervo, a city on the island of Sardinia; final yr, Bulgari added new retailers in Bodrum, Turkey, and on Mykonos.

Every Bulgari boutique adapts its product assortment to its location — some supply items from the excessive jewellery assortment, others don’t — however this summer time, the ephemeral retailers are all providing what the model calls a “resort assortment” of raffia equipment that Jean-Christophe Babin, its chief government, mentioned was impressed by the colourful colours of the Mediterranean.

“After years of putting up with lockdowns and residing behind screens,” he wrote in an electronic mail, “the resort assortment celebrates this return to normalcy.”

Seasonal shops are also a fixture at Chopard, which has them on Mykonos and Santorini, in addition to in St. Moritz and the French ski resort of Courchevel. Glenn Spiro, whose flagship showroom is in London’s Mayfair neighborhood, has momentary boutiques in St. Tropez and Los Angeles, and is ready to open a 3rd on St. Barts. “Folks suppose I’m loopy to have shops opened only some weeks a yr, nevertheless it works for me,” Mr. Spiro mentioned in a cellphone interview.

And each summer time since 2015, Eugenie Niarchos’s Venyx brand has operated its solely retailer stocked with completely Venyx jewellery within the Belvedere Resort on Mykonos.

Ms. Willersdorf of Boston Consulting Group mentioned that profound international inhabitants shifts — formed by taxes, laws and customers’ need to reside totally different life — started earlier than the pandemic, however these modifications had been then accelerated by Covid.

The disruption has additionally prompted some luxurious names to show their momentary websites into everlasting places. Boghossian, for instance, operated a sequence of pop-ups in Monaco, however then determined to open a everlasting boutique within the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo.

And Sotheby’s has made everlasting the galleries that it opened in 2020 within the Hamptons and Palm Seashore, Fla. “Now now we have develop into a part of the material of these locations, and shoppers come to Palm Seashore and East Hamptons additionally as a result of we’re there,” David Schrader, Sotheby’s international head of personal gross sales, mentioned in a cellphone name. This summer time, the East Hamptons gallery will function creations by two London-based jewelers, Solange Azagury-Partridge and Cora Sheibani.

The lingering results of the pandemic, together with the absence of Chinese language vacationers, caught up of their nation’s zero-Covid insurance policies, have luxurious manufacturers chasing clients wherever they’re, mentioned Achim Berg, head of McKinsey & Firm’s attire, fashion and luxurious group.

“A robust greenback and a weak euro are serving to,” he mentioned, however the backside line is that after two years of ready, “persons are touring and need to costume up.”

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